Handmade Mohair Cinches
Discover the artistry behind our Handmade Mohair Cinch, lovingly crafted in New Zealand using 100% natural mohair fibre. Each cinch embodies our commitment to excellence, ensuring unmatched quality and authenticity. Tailored to your exact preferences, our custom cinches can be crafted to any desired length, offering a range of premium cinch buckles and personalised colour themes. Embrace the individuality of our handmade creations, as every piece of mohair tack leaving our workshop is unique. Experience the luxury of bespoke cowboy gear, exclusively crafted for you.
STRAIGHT CINCH
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hand weaved 100% mohair cinch
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single layered cinch
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15, 17, or 19 strands (this determines the width)
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any length you choose
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strongly reinforced between the stainless steel centre dee rings
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stainless steel end buckles
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$225 NZD Base Price
ROPER CINCH
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hand weaved 100% mohair cinch
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double layered cinch
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23, 25 or 27 strands (this determines the width)
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any length you choose
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flares out to the centre
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strongly reinforced between the stainless steel centre dee rings
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stainless steel end buckles
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$260 NZD Base Price
CUTTER CINCH
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hand weaved 100% mohair cinch
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double layered cinch
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23, 25 or 27 strands (this determines the width)
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any length you choose
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no centre flare
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strongly reinforced between the stainless steel centre dee rings
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stainless steel end buckles
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$260 NZD Base Price
There are a multitude of options for the design of your cinch so please request a quote below and we will discuss your preferences. See our facebook/instagram photos for inspiration!
A $100 deposit is required and then the remaining balance will be invoiced when the cinch is finished. An invoice forthe deposit will be sent via email once we have discussed your design. The turnaround time for mohair tack is currently 10-12 weeks unless advised otherwise.
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CONFIDENCE IS KNOWING YOU ARE PREPARED
~ RAY HUNT
Choosing the right Cinch size and style for your Horse:
Measuring your Horse
The perfect cinch buckle positioning on your horse is no lower than 3-4 inches above the elbow, and below the curve of the ribs. This is to avoid the high movement zone where rubbing will occur creating cinch sores, and to provide a good flat base for the buckle to sit on for stabilisation.
It works well to have a saddle sitting on your horse during measuring (un-cinched) so that you can see where the rigging sits and to make sure you are measuring close to where the cinch will be sitting. A soft tape measure works great but you could also use twine/string etc. and measure that against a tape measure later.
If the buckle is too high and is sitting on the curve on the ribs, it will not sit flush against the horse and with movement, it will roll and cause cinch sores. You do not ever want the cinch buckle up so high that it is touching your saddle pad as this will make it very unstable and possibly rub!
If the buckle is sitting too low, it will be rubbing because there is a lot of loose skin down near the elbow. As the horse moves out, this skin moves and it rubs against the buckle creating cinch sores.
Measure from the centreline under the belly, up to the line where the bottom of the buckle will sit, then double the measurement and add 6 inches (for the buckles) for your overall cinch length. Cinch length includes the entire buckle and is measured in inches. They are generally made in 2 inch increments.
Bottom of Cinch Buckle
Top of Cinch Buckle
no higher than where the ribs start to curve.
3-4 inches above elbow and 3-4 inches out from elbow
There are two ways to measure what size cinch you need - one is measure the current cinch you have, and two is measure your horse.
Measuring your Current Cinch
Measure the entire cinch end to end INCLUDING THE BUCKLES under moderate tension if you have a cord style cinch. If your current cinch is a mohair blend, make sure you measure the cinch now rather than go off the size you originally ordered as there is a good chance it has stretched.
This would be a 29" Cinch under moderate tension.
Saddle Rig Position and Cinch Style
There are a few factors that contribute to choosing between a Straight Cinch and a Roper Cinch in order to get the best fit for your horse to avoid cinch sores.
The rigging of a saddle determines where the latigos hang and how far forward or back the cinch goes around the barrel. There are a number of different positions listed here, however some saddle makers may used slightly different marker points for their rigging positions. A lot of western saddles are usually made with 7/8 or 3/4 rigging, however there are a lot of roping saddles that are full rigged. There are different cinch styles that work best for each rigging position.
The most important part of the decision is making sure that the front edge of the cinch is not rubbing on the sensitive skin right behind the shoulder. This happens when the cinch is too wide and too far forward. The further forward your rigging is (full or 7/8), the less room you have for a cinch.
A full rigged saddle is generally best fit with a 15 or 17 strand straight cinch. If you are wanting a double layer cinch (either roper or cutter/half flare roper), for a full rigged saddle, a cutter or half flare roper cinch is the best match. This is because the flare in the centre of the full roper cinch means the leading edge cords cut in too sharp against the horse's armpit and rub in the most sensitive area and interferes with the horses movement.
A 7/8 or 3/4 rigged saddle is generally best with a 17 or 19 strand straight cinch or your choice of a full roper cinch or cutter cinch. This is because there is plenty of room between the leading edge of the cinch and the horse's armpit. It allows for flare of a roper cinch, or a wide straight cinch.
Full
7/8
3/4
5/8
Centre
Photo and saddle supplied by Nige Cameron Western Saddlery
On horses that are very chubby or straight sided and you often have issues with the saddle slipping, a full roper cinch can help to mitigate this. The width created at the top of the cinch from the flare means that there is greater surface area or 'grip' higher up the barrel. The most important decision is still making sure there is enough clearance between the leading edge of the cinch and the armpit area.
